We are now in Arugam Bay, the surfing capital of Sri Lanka. It took 3 separate hair-raising buses, totaling about 11 hours - over the river and through the woods to get here. We descended about 6,000 feet, cleared four armed security checkpoints and passed herds of WILD elephants (50+!) and peacocks before arriving to a land of cheap cabana huts, big waves and lots of surfers!
Our tuk-tuk driver at the end of the trip seemed to know everybody we passed. Soon, our cramped, glorified motorbike was filled by one Sinhalese driver, one Muslim Tamil, an armed soldier with an AK-47 (or some other VERY large gun), two overstuffed backpacks, a travel guitar and Paul and I - Lonely Planet in hand.
Arugam Bay was hit hard by the tsunami. On a regular day, the waves are HUGE and crash hard on the sand - often taking you with them. If you dare the water, as we did today with boogie boards, your suit will inevitably be filled with buckets of sand ....if it stays on at all! Though I love the water, the strong waves are a bit haunting as I try and fight the undertow. I have retired my board!
Most of the hotels have been repaired and further inland, homes have been constructed by international NGOs. The rooftops are painted with big, loud block letters declaring which UN/EU agency donated the home. People openly share stories about the tsunami and its aftermath is still apparent.
The beach is a bit more expensive than India or other parts of Sri Lanka, but with our own Cabana, a private outdoor shower, a warm breeze and a nice hammock - it indeed feels like a vacation
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